A warming beef and root vegetable curry

Indian beef curry with root vegetablesThis recipe is one that I recently wrote for our local community newspaper.  Inspired by some of the dedicated farmers who sell locally raised, hormone and anti-biotic free meat at the Landsdowne Farmer’s Market. The vegetarian dishes of India are fantastic but so too are many of the meat dishes.  This recipe, one could interpret it as a spiced beef stew, is a good introduction to a simple meat curry.  Play around with the spice combinations to tailor it to your own preferences and tastes. Lamb, pork, bison or elk can be substituted but cooking the time may need to be adjusted.  Typically, vegetables would not be added to such a dish but by doing so you end up with an easy substantial meal.  I love making the curry at this time of year as I find the shades of orange, rust, yellow, white and speckles of green on the plate mimic what is happening in the fields and forests during mid-autumn.

A warming beef and root vegetable curry
Serves: 4
 
Ingredients
  • 2 pounds (1 kg) stewing beef in 1 ½ inch cubes
  • 2 medium white onions, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp garlic cloves (3 cloves), finely chopped
  • 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely chopped plus 1 tbsp julienned ginger for garnish
  • ½ tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp cumin powder
  • ¼ tsp cayenne powder (family friendly); ½ tsp for a spicier curry
  • 3 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 green chilli- seeds removed- finely chopped
  • 2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 ½ cups assorted root vegetables (carrots, turnips, potatoes, squash) cut into bite sized pieces
Instructions
Preheat a heavy bottomed large saucepan at medium heat. Add cumin seeds and dry roast for about 2 minutes or until aromatic and dark brown. Remove cumin seeds and set aside.

Pour vegetable oil into pan and increase heat to medium high. Toss in onions and cook for about 5 minutes or until golden brown. Add cayenne powder and cook for 30 seconds or until oil starts to separate from the onions. Add chopped garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in cumin powder and cook for 2 minutes. Add stewing beef and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring regularly, for about 15 minutes until all of the meat has changed colour and has lightly browned. Toss in tomatoes, green chilli, toasted cumin and a quarter cup of water. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes or until tender. Occasionally give the meat a stir. Once the meat is tender, remove the cover and simmer until most of the liquid has reduced but still lightly coats the meat.

While the curry is simmering, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Toss in one type of root vegetable and cook until tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Repeat with other vegetables, if using.

When you are happy with the consistency and tenderness of the curry gently stir in the cooked vegetables. Check and adjust seasoning, if need be. Garnish with julienned ginger and roughly chopped coriander and serve immediately.
  1. The beef curry can be served with rice, naan or homemade paratha.

NOTE: This was originally posted on my blog India On My Plate on November 2, 2011

Grilled Smoky Eggplant and threat of GM Eggplant in India

Grilled spiced eggplant on top of yogurt as an Indian saladLast Sunday strolling through the Landsdowne Farmer’s Market I happened upon a stall selling some gorgeous tiny pear-shaped organic eggplant, about 3 inches high, variegated with white and deep purple.  Unfortunately the young vendor was unsure of the variety name and provenance. The day before I had just made some eggplant pickle, which these would have been perfect for, but I already had an idea of what I was going to prepare.

Tuesday night’s meal was bittersweet. My wife was happy to see this dish on our table that night as it is a favourite of hers.  Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about what possibly could be soon served on thalis throughout India.  Earlier that day, under the chairmanship of the Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, the BRAI bill (Biotechnology Regulatory Authority of India) was approved and is expected to be tabled in the current session of Parliament. Under the proposed bill the Federal government will hold the power to override any State-level acts and regulations with respect to GMOs throughout the country. The bill can clear any GM foods, despite the concerns raised against them.

Such a bill threatens food safety, the environment and the right to choose what one eats. Just last year, when genetically modified eggplant was initially approved by the Indian parliament as part of the US-India Agricultural Knowledge Initiative farmers, State governments, GM activists, and ordinary citizens raised concerns that its introduction would lead to an increase in monoculture and a decrease in eggplant varieties. The Indian government was forced to place a temporary moratorium on the GM eggplant. However now it seems that they prefer not to listen to their citizens, the very ones who elected them.

Why should you be concerned about this, not living in India? India is the world’s largest producer of brinjal/ aubergine/ eggplant in the world growing more than 4,000 varieties. Local farmers often choose a variety that meets their regional needs and preferences and is best suited to their specific local ecosystems. Recent history has demonstrated that when governments give larger corporations such power in agriculture there is not only a decrease in plant variety but also the small farmer and consumer are the ones who directly end up feeling the negative effects. India’s infrastructure is not yet as well planned as, say China’s. But it will be. Come that day, in this globalised world, these GM eggplants will eventually make it to North American and European supermarkets.  You can make your voice heard by signing a petition which asks the Indian government to stop the passing of this bill.

Thanks for your patience. Now, on to the cooking.

Grilled Smoky Eggplant
Serves: 4
 
This recipe is Bengali influenced. Typically it is pan fried (great for the colder months) but I have decided to grill it. If you do not have mustard oil I have suggested some other types. I have also decided to use Spanish smoky paprika. I find it adds a nice spicy, smoky level to the dish. Don’t worry if you do not have it as regular paprika and cayenne powder are normally used. Lastly, although not actually done in Bengal, I have added a drizzle of browned butter. I normally use some ghee, which I let the whey get browned to give it a nutty flavor. However when I am out I simply do a quick browned butter to get the same flavor. I particularly love this dish because as people serve themselves the eggplant the spices coating it begins to mingle with the tart yogurt and not only produce some lovely colours but also some great flavours.
Ingredients
  • 1 large eggplant or 2 Japanese eggplant (or similar amount of small eggplants)
  • 1 tbsp mustard seed oil (or Indian sesame oil or vegetable oil)
  • ½ tsp turmeric powder
  • ½ tsp smoky Spanish paprika (or ¼ tsp paprika and ¼ tsp cayenne powder)
  • ¾ cup plain yogurt
  • 3 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 3 tbsp coriander, roughly chopped
  • 1-2 tsp browned ghee or butter (optional)
  • pinch of cayenne powder (optional)
Instructions
Preheat grill.

Cut eggplant crosswise into rounds of about ¾ of an inch. Place in a large bowl or casserole dish.

In a small bowl, mix together oil, turmeric, and Spanish paprika. Pour over eggplant and rub spices into flesh of eggplant. Marinate for 10 minutes.

In a medium sized bowl, stir together yogurt, lemon juice, sugar, and salt to taste. Keep aside.

When the grill is hot, season each side of eggplant with salt and pepper. Place eggplant rounds onto oiled grill. Cook for about 2 minutes and then lift each piece and turn at a 45 degree angle. !Cook for 1 minute then turn each piece over. Cook for another 2 minutes and then turn each piece again at a 45 degree angle. This technique will help give you a nice cross mark look on the eggplant.

Spoon yogurt into a medium sized shallow plate of bowl. Arrange the warm eggplant over the yogurt. Drizzle browned butter over eggplant/yogurt, if using. Garnish with coriander and a pinch of cayenne powder. Serve immediately.

How to brown butter:
Heat a thick bottomed small saucepan on medium heat. Add 2 tbsp of butter in the pan. Stir until melted. In a couple of minutes the butter will begin to foam and then the foam will briefly subside. !Little bits of browned whey will appear and the butter will take on a nutty aroma. Pour hot butter into a small container to cool.

NOTE: This was originally posted on my blog India On My Plate on August 18, 2011.

 

Zucchini Flower and Vegetable Fritters

Ingredients for zucchini flower Orissa style Chickpea FrittersThis past Sunday, during my weekly visit to the Landsdowne Farmer’s Market I spotted some bright yellow zucchini flowers and some perfect finger length okra from Acorn Creek Farms.  Seeing these vegetables reminded me of my first trip, a year and a half ago, to Orissa, along the east coast of India. My friend, Jason, had introduced me to Debjeet from Living Farms– an organisation working to provide food sovereignty for the small and marginal farmers in India. Luckily, I connected with Debjeet in Bhubaneswar and he took me to a restaurant which specialized in Oriya food.  We had a flavourful lunch of mustard coated fish and prawn curry (harvested from the brackish waters of nearby Chilka Lake) some fried okra spiced with panch phutana (cumin, mustard, fennel, fenugreek and kalonji) and a battered then fried pumpkin flower.  I was pleasantly surprised to be served the pumpkin flower as I am aware of the seasonality of such a form of the vegetable. I am accustomed to preparing zucchini flowers in a French or Italian style but this was the first time I had seen it used in an Indian kitchen.

I’m not sure if you have the same problem but often I end up with little amounts of vegetables left in my fridge.  This inevitably happens the day that I am to receive my CSA box and I need to find a way to use up the remnants from the previous week’s delivery.  Tidying up to make room for the freshly harvested vegetables I found the forgotten okra and zucchini flowers (still in good shape as I had stored them in the butter compartment in the door).  Instead of making a mixed vegetable pasta, soup or dal I decided to make a quick tea time snack using the neglected and leftover vegetables.

The recipe may appear lengthy but it is very easy. Consider it an Indian version of tempura, most often called bhaji or bhaja. Essentially, it is similar to a pakora but this time relatively thin slices of the vegetables are dipped into a chickpea and rice flour batter (crepe like consistency) and then fried until golden brown. It is best to make your accompanying chutney before you prepare the fritters.

Orissa style zucchini flower and patty pan squash chickpea fritters

Zucchini Flower and Vegetable Fritters
 
Ingredients
  • Batter Recipe
  • ½ cup chickpea flour (you can use just chickpea flour but I find the rice flour adds a nice crispness to the fried batter)
  • ½ cup rice flour
  • ¼ tsp baking soda
  • ½ tsp turmeric powder
  • ½ tsp cayenne powder
  • ¾ tsp salt
  • 1 cup water
Instructions
In a large mixing bowl stir together chickpea flour, rice flour, baking soda, turmeric and cayenne powders, and salt. Gradually pour water into the mixing bowl and whisk briefly to remove any lumps and the mixture is smooth. The batter should be the consistency of cream. If you feel it needs to be a bit looser start by adding one or two tablespoons of water until you achieve your desired consistency. (If the batter sits a bit (ie 20 minutes or so) you will most likely need to do this.

Fill a karhai, wok, or heavy bottomed saucepan (one with high sides, such as a pot you would use for boiling pasta) one third full with vegetable oil. Heat the oil over medium heat to 350F (180C). If you do not have a deep fry thermometer heat oil and test with a small cube of bread. If the bread cube lightly browns in 10 seconds the oil is ready to use.

Vegetables:
Zucchini flowers: Leave the steam in if possible as it is easier to dip into batter. Lightly brush off any dirt particles. Also look inside as bees love to gather nectar from the inside of the flowers.
Swiss Chard, Spinach or Beet Greens: Wash well in water and gently dry with kitchen towel. Leave a length of stem/rib as it is easier to dip into batter and then oil.
Eggplants: Slice ⅓ inch thick
Potatoes: Slice ¼ inch thick
Pumpkins: Peel and slice ¼ inch thick
Sweet Potato: Peel and slice ¼ inch thick
Pumpkin or squash: Peel and slice ¼ inch thick
Zucchini or Patty Pan: Peel and Slice ⅓ inch thick

Dip about 7-10 pieces of a single vegetable into the batter and carefully slide each individual piece into the hot oil. The vegetables should not be too crowded in the oil. Cook for about 3 minutes per side. Using a slotted spoon carefully turn over the vegetable pieces. Sometimes you can use the spoon to push the pieces under the oil, if need be.
When both sides are golden brown, use a slotted spoon or mesh strainer to remove the fried vegetable and drain on paper towels.
Repeat with the rest of the vegetables, cooking each vegetable separately. Serve hot with [url:1]green chutney[/url] or [url:1]tamarind chutney.[/url]
Notes
Cook the zucchini flowers or swiss chard last as they cook more quickly (in about a minute). Also, it is important to coat the zucchini flowers or swiss chard leaves with enough batter for them to be crispy rather than oily.

NOTE: This was originally posted on my blog India On My Plate on August 12, 2011

Summer is Here: Mango and Rhubarb Lassis

Box of Alphonso Mangoes from IndiaRipe, deep orange Indian Alphonso MangoesTwo of my favourite fruits are currently in season albeit on different continents. In India, mangoes currently reign supreme, only rivalled by Bihari litchis at their peak. In Canada, glorious pink hued rhubarb is taking over neglected back corners of home gardens. I made my weekly visit to our neighbourhood Indian grocer to pick up a case of sweet Alphonso mangoes direct from Mumbai and to the Landsdowne Farmer’s Market in Ottawa for rhubarb and ripe ruby red Ottawa Valley strawberries. With the weather being hot and humid cooling afternoon drinks is a necessity. Here are two quick and easy lassi recipes; one sweet from the nectar of mangoes and the other shouting ‘summer is here’ with its refreshing sour and sweet flavour and gorgeous pink hue.

Mango Lassi
Serves: 2
 
Ingredients
  • 1 Alphonso mango *see note*
  • 1 cup plain yogurt
  • 1¼ cup milk or water
  • ½ cup ice
  • 1 tbsp sugar
Instructions
  1. Peel, pit and chop the mango. Place in blender with yogurt, milk or water, ice and sugar. Blend to a puree. Serve as is or over ice.
Notes
When I cannot get fresh Alphonso mangoes I often substitute canned Alphonso mango puree. I like to freeze the puree in smaller ½ cup or 1 cup quantities for easy access when needed.

Rhubarb Strawberry Lassi
Serves: 4
 
Ingredients
  • 1 cup rhubarb, chopped
  • 1 cup strawberries, washed, hulled and roughly chopped
  • 4 tbsp sugar
  • 2 cups plain yogurt
  • 2 cup milk or water
  • 1 cup ice
Instructions
  1. Place chopped rhubarb and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. As the rhubarb heats up some juice will be released. Cook for about five minutes, occasionally stirring. Add the strawberries and cook for another few minutes. Set aside and let cool. Place rhubarb/strawberry mixture in blender with yogurt, milk or water, ice and sugar. Blend to a puree. Serve as is or over ice.
Notes
Substitions: If strawberries are not available, raspberries, blackberries or blueberries can also be substituted. If using raspberries you may want to puree the fruit mix first then pass it through a fine mesh strainer to remove the seeds. If seeds do not bother you proceed as described above.