Mulligatawny Soup

Mulligatawny soupMulligatawny soup is perhaps one of the most well known Anglo-Indian dishes that came out of the Raj, the period of the British rule of India. Jennifer Brennan’s culinary memoir, Curries and Bugles: A Cookbook of the British Raj, is a solid account of what the cultural and culinary life was like for the British living in India from the late 19th century up to 1947, the time of Indian Independence.  In it she describes how mulligatawny soup is a derivative of South Indian rasam, a watery broth of lentils, ground spices, made slightly sour with tamarind. Since the soup course is not really part of an Indian meal it was most likely a British memsahib (“housewife”), who wanted to offer a unique soup to their guests, and asked her cook to come up with a solution.  It really is that first South Indian cook, and not the memsahib, who should be credited with the innovative idea of merging his staple daily rasam with vegetables and meat to create a satisfying soup.

As the weather turns colder this is a great soup to have as a light meal. This recipe uses local lamb, from La Ferme Albe, but chicken can also be substituted.  Including diced and blanched potatoes, carrots or turnips as a garnish can make this a more substantial soup.  With only a couple of omissions and additions a vegetarian version is quick and easy to make (see end of recipe).

Mulligatawny Soup
Serves: 4
 
Ingredients
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil or ghee
  • 1 pound (1/2 kg.) cubed lamb leg or shoulder; or substitute with chicken thighs on bone
  • 1 medium sized onion, finely chopped
  • 16-20 curry leaves
  • 1 tbsp garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp ginger, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and ground
  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and ground
  • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
  • ½ teaspoon paprika
  • ½ teaspoon ground cayenne (for mild) or ¾-1 tsp for a kick!
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 plum tomatoes, finely chopped
  • ¾ cup masoor dal (split red lentils)
  • 6 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
  • 1 (400ml) can of coconut milk
  • 4-6 tbsp tamarind water or to taste
  • Salt and pepper
  • Coriander leaves, for garnish
  • Fried onions, for garnish (optional)
Instructions
In a medium sized pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook for 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add curry leaves, garlic and ginger and cook for a few minutes. Stir in ground spices, bay leaf and cook for another couple of minutes. Add lamb, salt, pepper and cook until the lamb has changed colour. Toss in tomatoes and red lentils. Cook for another minute then pour in chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface.
Cover and cook over low heat for about 45 minutes or until the lamb pieces are fork tender.

While the lamb is gently simmering, place 1 cup of basmati rice in a small pot. Cover with 1 ½ cups of water and bring to a boil. When it has reached a boil, cover and reduce the heat to low.
Cook for 12 minutes then turn off the heat. Keep the lid on and allow the rice to steam for another 10 minutes.

Remove lamb pieces from the broth and dice or shred. Set aside.

Remove and discard bay leaf and curry leaves (if some remain, no problem).

Place broth in a blender and puree. Return to pot and keep warm over low heat. Pour in the coconut milk. Stir in tamarind water, to taste. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and tamarind.

Ladle some soup into a bowl. Spoon a ⅓ cup of cooked rice in the centre of soup and top with some diced lamb, coriander leaves and crisp fried onions, if using. Accompany with papadums.

Note: If tamarind liquid not available you can substitute with lime juice to taste.
Notes
For Vegetarian Version:

Replace lamb with bite sized pieces of mushrooms.

Replace chicken stock with vegetable stock or water.

Reduce cooking/simmering time to 20 minutes.

Remember to remove and set aside mushrooms before pureeing soup.

Other cooked vegetables (ie boiled cauliflower, fried eggplant or stir fried greens) or pulses (such as cooked chickpeas/ or other pulses) can be added at end as a further garnish.

NOTE: This was originally published on my blog India On My Plate on November 15, 2011